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P1319–P1320 Knock Sensor 1 (G61) Circuit: Short to Ground

Do not keep driving

A wire in this circuit is touching the car's metal body, so current escapes to earth instead of reaching the part.

Can you drive it? This class of fault can cause real mechanical damage if you keep driving on it. A persistent misfire also destroys the catalytic converter, which is the expensive part.

Which code is which

Same fault, different cylinder or bank — diagnosed the same way. Several set together usually means one shared cause.

CodeDefinitionSeverity
P1319Knock Sensor 1 (G61) Circuit: Short to GroundDo not keep driving
P1320Knock Sensor 2 (G66) Circuit: Short to GroundDo not keep driving

The definition

P1319: Knock Sensor 1 (G61) Circuit: Short to Ground.

P1319 is a manufacturer-specific powertrain code (the engine or gearbox). Its meaning is set by the carmaker rather than by the SAE standard, so a generic OBD-II reader will often show it as an unknown code or misread it.

What to check first

Cheapest and fastest checks first:

  1. Unplug the connector at the part and measure resistance from each signal pin to a good earth. A healthy circuit reads open, not a few ohms.
  2. Follow the loom for chafe points - where it crosses a bracket, passes an edge, or flexes near a hinge or the engine mounts.
  3. Look for water or corrosion in the connector. A wet plug shorts pins to each other and to the body.

What actually causes this on a VAG

A knock sensor is essentially a microphone bolted to the side of the engine block, listening for pinking (detonation). Knock sensor 1, G61, covers cylinder bank 1. "Short to ground" means the ECU is seeing that sensor's circuit pulled down to earth - an electrical fault in the sensor, its plug or its wiring. It is not telling you the engine is actually knocking; that is a different code entirely. With the sensor out of action the ECU can no longer hear knock, so it falls back on a safe ignition map and retards the timing as a precaution - expect slightly less power, poorer economy and perhaps a flat spot, and on a turbo engine some boost reduction as well. That safety retard is there to protect the engine, so you are not doing damage driving it gently, but don't leave it indefinitely on a turbo or a tuned car.

Most likely causes, in order

  1. Chafed or damp wiring under the inlet manifold. On many VAG engines the knock sensors sit low on the block or down in the vee, with their loom routed under the inlet manifold where it rubs on brackets, bakes against hot metal, and collects oil and water. Inspect the loom wherever it passes over a metal edge and open the connectors to look for oil or corrosion. A wiggle test with the engine running will often make the fault come and go, which confirms it - keep hands, sleeves and the test lead well clear of the belts and the cooling fan.
  2. Wire pinched or trapped at the sensor's mounting bolt. A short to earth has to touch metal somewhere, and the sensor's own bolt is the easiest place for that to happen. If the engine has been apart recently, check that the sensor lead has not been trapped under the sensor body, pinched between the sensor and the block, or dragged tight across the bolt head as the sensor was torqued down.
  3. A previous repair made with ordinary wire. Knock sensor cable is screened, and the screen matters - it stops ignition and injector noise being picked up as a false signal. A joint made with plain wire, a screen left disconnected, or a crimped repair in a damp spot gives exactly this kind of intermittent short-to-earth reading. If the loom has been repaired before, look there first: insulation tape, heatshrink or a scotchlok anywhere in the run is a strong clue.
  4. Sensor itself has failed. The piezo element or its internal lead can break down and short to the sensor body, which is bolted to the block and therefore to earth. Confirm it rather than guess: unplug the sensor and check for continuity between each pin on the sensor side and the sensor body or the block - a good sensor shows none. If the sensor side is clean and the loom side shows continuity to earth, the fault is in the wiring, not the sensor. Treat the sensor as the answer only after the wiring and connector have been properly checked, because on these engines the loom fails far more often than the sensor does.

Worth knowing: On many VAG engines the sensors are buried under the inlet manifold, so the labour is almost all of the cost. If the manifold has to come off anyway, most people renew the sub-loom properly and change both sensors on that bank while it is open, simply because coming back for the second one costs the same labour again. When refitting, the sensor must go back clean, flat and dry against bare metal with nothing under it - no washers, no paint, no rust - and torqued to the manufacturer's figure with a torque wrench, or a perfectly good sensor will misread.

Reading the code is the easy part

A code names the circuit that complained. What tells you why is watching the sensor behind it while the engine runs — and that is where a code reader stops and a diagnostic tool starts.

VAGPULSE reads every module in a VW, Audi, Skoda or SEAT — not just the engine — shows the live measuring blocks behind this fault, gives you the freeze-frame conditions it was logged under, and clears it once you have fixed it. It also does what a generic OBD reader cannot on a VAG: service resets, coding, adaptations, and Stage 1–3 flashing with your original file saved first.

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Common questions

What does P1319 mean?

P1319 means Knock Sensor 1 (G61) Circuit: Short to Ground. A wire in this circuit is touching the car's metal body, so current escapes to earth instead of reaching the part.

Can I drive with P1319?

This class of fault can cause real mechanical damage if you keep driving on it. A persistent misfire also destroys the catalytic converter, which is the expensive part.

Related reading

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